Designing: Body Shaping and Sleeves for Sweater 2

The sleeves and body will be split on round 85. I need to figure out how each part will be worked.

Whichever of the sleeves or body I work first, I’ll do a provisional cast-on with waste yarn for the underarm stitches. Then when I want to do the other part, I’ll remove the PCO and capture those live sts on the needle along with that part’s held sts from the yoke. Note that because I’ll have one less stitch when I remove the PCO, I’ll do a yarnover right in the middle, to add the stitch on which I’ll do the same afterthought phony seams as on the U-Neck. {add link to that post}

Sleeves

When I combine the underarm sts with the 55 from the yoke, I’ll have the desired 70 sts around the sleeve. Because I want these sleeves shorter than the ones on the U-Neck, I’ll work only 43 rounds of stockinette before working the 10 rounds of 2×2 ribbing.

Since I have only 70 sts, I need to either increase or decrease 2 sts to get a total that’s a multiple of 4. As with the first sweater, I’ll increase to 72, to avoid a too-tight cuff edge.

Body

When I combine the two underarms’ 15 sts each with the stitches from the yoke, I’ll have a total of 202 sts at the chest.

On this sweater, there’s a 28-stitch difference between the chest and hips, so I’ll do 7 increase rounds of 4 sts each, with a single increase both before and after the 3 sts marked off at the body’s left and right “seams.”

As with the U-Neck, I’ll work the first increase of each body shaping increase round at what is technically the end of the preceding round, so that the left “seam” increases are aligned visually.

I’ll do “rev yo…yo” on either side of the sets of 3 sts at the body “seams” so the increases twist shut in opposite directions when I work all the yarnovers through their trailing legs.

I hope to work 126–135 rounds on the body (including the 10 rounds of ribbing at the bottom edge) after the underarm split, depending on how the rounds get split up between the colorways. That means I’ll work 116–125 rounds of stockinette. I want the first increase round about 2 inches after the underarm split, and I want the last increase round about 2 inches before the switch to ribbing.

At a laundered gauge of 9 rpi, I won’t work the first increase round until 18 rounds after the underarm, and the last increase round will be 18 rounds before the ribbing. Using the smaller, more conservative number of total stockinette body rounds, I’ll have 80 rounds (116 minus 18 minus 18) in which to work the 7 increase rounds. Since 80 divided by 7 is about 11.4, I need to work the increase rounds either 11 or 12 rounds apart.

The first body increase round will occur 19 rounds after the body/sleeve split, then I’ll work 6 more increase rounds every 11 rounds (so 10 rounds worked evenly after each increase).

With the underarm split on round 85 and using the smaller number of body rounds to provide some margin, I’ll work in stockinette to round 200, then switch to ribbing for 10 rounds.

Now that I know how many stitches and rounds will be made where, I need to see where to change colors while also avoiding any chance of playing yarn chicken.

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