I am totally serious. How big a paint brush do you use for different painting tasks?
You use a roller for large areas, and you use perhaps a two-inch brush for getting close around door frames, window frames, baseboards, and ceilings. (And if you’ve never tried the one with the bristles cut at an angle, you’ve been missing out.) Nothing revolutionary or unexpected here.
This post is backdated to the day of the news, which is that Schoolhouse Press is putting a blurb about my book in the next Wool Gathering (#97), which comes out in September (2017).
Was I excited or what??? No wonder I didn’t have two brain cells to remember to share the news here!
So I’m finalizing the book (thank You, God!) and stumbled across a good way to verify that those final little edits didn’t turn into big boo-boos.
If you have to frog, you know it’s very easy to rip out the last row you worked.
But what if you find yourself in a situation where you need to frog the cast-on and first row you worked? Can it be done?
Have you ever looked at an Aran sweater and felt like there was no way you could make it? That juggling all those gorgeous cable patterns at the same time was beyond your ability?
It’s not. There is a simple way to keep every pattern on track as you work that dream sweater.
Gauge is very important, yet it isn’t important at all.
Gauge determines how big your finished project will be. That’s probably what most knitters think of.
But gauge also determines the feel of the fabric: how it drapes, if at all. Projects worked very tightly will have much less drape than those worked more loosely. That means tight-gauge garments will be stiff and less body-conforming when worn. On the other hand, tightly worked projects make good tote bags.