All posts by Holly Briscoe

Sweater Adventure #4: WIP It…Awesome!!!

All along I’ve been concerned that the delays of half the raglan increases (on the fronts and the back), due to the front and back necks being overly wide right from the very beginning of the sweater, would make the fabric act weird. My original intention was to work through the wrong-side row 24, ahead of the front’s first set of raglan incs to be worked on row 25 and the back’s to be worked on row 27, then put the sts on my preferred ribbon stitch holders and evaluate the fabric. Continue reading...

Sweater Adventure #4: Working the Top of the Yoke

Since the top of this sweater has some peculiar steps, I thought it might be useful to show pictures of the progress.

I first made the two neck extensions, adding an extra stitch along the outer edge of each (meaning the edge that will not be the free edge along the neckline) to give me a place to knit or purl up the sleeve stitches without losing my desired 11-stitch finished width of the front-neck edgings. Continue reading...

Sweater Adventure #4: Finalizing the Initial Steps

Having thought through the entire edging situation several times, I think it’s easiest to start in the middle of the process: how I’ll knit (or purl!) up stitches along the combined neck edgings to form the first row of each sleeve’s stitches. Once I know how I’ll do that part of the process, it will be obvious which row will need to have been the last one I work on each of the front-neck extensions.

The Back Neck

Since I prefer to start all major knitting stages and milestones on the right side, I’m going to want to knit/purl up along the front extensions’ cast-on edges such that when I turn to work the first actual row of the back neck, that first row is a RS row 1. So instead of knitting up along the front extensions’ CO edges, I will indeed have to purl up along them. I’ll do my usual crochet CO for the free edge between them.

My first plan for heights of the neck edge’s rectangles makes the back neck 10 rows tall before I knit/purl up for the sleeves. That means I’ll be finishing a WS row, which puts me at the left shoulder, because the CO edge between the two extensions will be at the top of my back neck.

The First Sleeve and Its Front Extension

Very good. That means that I’ll create stitches for the left sleeve along the left front’s extension and the left end of the back neck (left meaning the wearer’s—my—left as the garment is being worn). Since I’ll still be looking at the WIP’s wrong side as I rotate to create those stitches, I’ll actually need to purl up stitches for the left sleeve. Then when I rotate to work the held live stitches of the left front’s extension, I’ll still be working a WS row, which means I need to work the left front’s extension such that I end having worked a RS row. If I work through row 19 in pattern, then I’ll work row 20 after I’ve purled up the left sleeve’s stitches.

The Second Sleeve and Its Front Extension

Very good again. I turn in the usual way this time, so that the RS is facing me, then work back across the left front, the left sleeve, and the back (and the back will still be in pattern, since I want the back neck’s edging to be a total of 14 rows deep). Now it’s time to knit/purl up along the top-ish of the right sleeve. Since I’ll keep looking at the WIP’s RS when I rotate (not turn) it to access the outer edge of the edging rectangles already worked, I’ll knit up the right sleeve’s stitches. I will again rotate (not turn) the WIP to work a RS row on the right front’s edging extension, so I will have needed to stop that front extension with a WS row.

I will have worked row 21 on the left front’s edge extension, and now I need to work row 21 on the right front. That means I will need to have worked 20 rows on the right front’s edge extension before breaking off the yarn.

When I have worked row 21 on the right front, I will have the entire yoke’s stitches on the needles, in pattern, in order, and ready to continue down to the underarms.

Knit/Purl-Up Rate

Exactly how many stitches will I need to purl and knit up for the sleeves on those two rows? I’ll use simple ratios to figure those numbers out.

My stitch gauge is 24.5 per 4 inches, and my row gauge is 38 per 4 inches.

For the left sleeve, I’ll have the 10 rows from the back neck’s edge plus the 19 rows from the left front neck’s extension, so 29 rows. My ratio using my row gauge is

x inches     4 inches
--------  =  --------
29 rows       38 rows

Multiplying both sides by 29 gives 3.05 inches’ worth of rows.

So how many stitches will I need to purl up along those 3.05 inches’ worth of rows? I figure it out by using a simple ratio with my stitch gauge:

   x sts        24.5 sts
-----------  =  --------
3.05 inches     4 inches

Multiplying both sides by 3.05 means I need to purl up 18.68, so 19, sts for the left sleeve.

For the right sleeve, I do the same thing. I’ll have the same 10 rows from the back neck plus 20 rows from the front, or 30 total rows.

x inches 4 inches -------- = -------- 30 rows 38 rows Continue reading...

Sweater Adventure #4: Hawthorne Sweater

These four sweater adventures used yarn from three value packs of two different lines of Knit Picks yarn. The first two sweaters came from the CotLin Reflections VP, containing 12 colorways. The CotLin U-Neck and the CotLin Circular Yoke both used 5 unique colorways, and I used the remaining 2 colorways for swatching. The third sweater, the Hawthorne Vest, used the Hawthorne Bramble VP, with 5 colorways. I’m now down to the final VP, the Hawthorne Fog Bank VP, with 7 colorways. Continue reading...

Faking It?

It’s football season once again, so if you hear yelling, that’s probably me and the Big Guy!!!

As I was watching a college game this past Saturday, whose participants shall remain nameless but whose team colors are navy/gold and red/black, the navy/gold team would occasionally have a defensive player fall to the ground, at which point the referees would stop the clock for an injury. Continue reading...